RHS Growing Guides
Our detailed growing guide will help you with each step in successfully growing Rhubarb.
1
Getting Started
Section 1 of 7
Rhubarb crops reliably every year with little maintenance
The leaf stalks are usually picked during spring and early summer, but plants can be covered with large pots or
Artificially speeding up a plantâs growth, flowering or fruiting, usually by manipulation of temperature and light. Rhubarb and chicory can be forced in late winter by covering with a forcing jar or bucket, or by placing potted plants in the dark, to produce earlier, paler, sweeter growth. Hyacinths and other spring bulbs are often forced, so they flower earlier indoors.
Some initial patience is required, as you shouldnât harvest any stems in the first year after planting, and only a few in the second, to allow the plant to get well established. In the third year, you can harvest normally, taking up to a third of the stalks at any one time.
Rhubarb is traditionally eaten as a dessert, baked in pies and crumbles, but you can use your plentiful harvests in many more ways, including tangy chutneys and savoury sauces.
Month by Month
Jobs to do now
- Plant dormant crowns
- Apply mulch and fertiliser
- Pick forced stems
- Plant dormant crowns
- Apply mulch and fertiliser
- Pick forced stems
| J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plant | Y | Y | Y | N | N | N | N | N | N | Y | Y | Y |
| Harvest | N | N | Y | Y | Y | Y | Y | N | N | N | N | N |
2
Choosing
Section 2 of 7
Rhubarb stems range from deep burgundy to light pink, depending on the variety
What and where to buy
Before buying, itâs also worth asking fellow gardeners if they have any rhubarb plants to spare. Established clumps should bedivided every few years, in late autumn or winter, to keep them cropping well. This process produces several new plants each time â ideal for sharing with friends.
Recommended Varieties
'Giant Grooveless Crimson'
Compact, early cropping, tall, uniform, fully flavoured bright red stems. Perennial plant and less acidic than some other...
The RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) helps gardeners choose the best plants for their garden.
Wild bees and other pollinators are in decline. The Plants for Pollinators initiative helps gardeners easily identify plants that encourage them back into the garden
'Raspberry Red'
Produces sweet bright red stems without the need for forcing. Heavy cropper from April until late June.
The RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) helps gardeners choose the best plants for their garden.
Wild bees and other pollinators are in decline. The Plants for Pollinators initiative helps gardeners easily identify plants that encourage them back into the garden
'Timperley Early'
Early variety bred for forcing. Performs very well outside, but even better colour when forced.
The RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) helps gardeners choose the best plants for their garden.
Wild bees and other pollinators are in decline. The Plants for Pollinators initiative helps gardeners easily identify plants that encourage them back into the garden
Showing 3 out of 5 varieties
3
Sowing
Section 3 of 7
Growing rhubarb from seed is not the easiest or quickest option, but it is the cheapest way to produce lots of plants. Seed-raised plants are slower to get established than rhubarb bought as bare-root or potted plants, which already have strong roots. They are also more variable in quality, as boughtplants are produced by divisionso are exact clones of their parent.
Sow rhubarb seeds in March or April, either indoors or in the ground. Outdoors, sow them 2.5cm (1in) deep, then thin out the seedlings to 15cm (6in) apart.Indoors, use small pots or modules filled with peat-free seed compost.Transplant the young rhubarb plants into their final position in autumn or the following spring.
4
Planting
Section 4 of 7
Rhubarb grows best in an open, sunny site with fertile, moist but free-draining soil. It will also cope in light shade. Avoid ground that gets waterlogged, as plants are liable to rot. If your soil isheavy, plant inraised bedsor large containers. Although rhubarb is very hardy, itâs best not to plant it in a site prone to latefrosts, as the young stems may be damaged. Alternatively, choose a later-cropping variety.
Rhubarb can be bought either in pots or as dormant bare-root plants known as crowns. Both are planted in a similar way, although the timing may vary:
- Containerised plantsâ are sold all year round for planting at any time, although spring or autumn are best. Avoid planting in very hot, dry weather
- Bare-root crownsâ are only available from mid-autumn to early spring and should be planted straight away, ideally in November or December
Prepare the planting site by digging in two bucketfuls of well-rotted manure per square metre/yard. Then dig a planting hole thatâs just a little larger than the roots. Position the plant so the tip of the crown, or the point where the leaves emerge, is just above the soil surface. Back-fill around the roots with soil, firm in, then water well. If planting more than one, space them 75â90cm (30â36in) apart.âFor more planting tips, see ourguide below.
Related RHS Guides
Planting in a container
If your soil is heavy or waterlogged, or youâre short on soil space, you can grow rhubarb in a large container, at least 50cm (20in) deep and wide. Make sure there are plenty of drainage holes and choose a peat-free soil-based compost. Position the plant so its main growth bud or the point where the leaf stalks emerge is just above the compost surface. See our guides belowfor more tips.
5
Plant Care
Section 5 of 7
Once established, rhubarb needs little maintenance, apart from removing flower stems and faded leaves, and mulching in spring. For a prized crop of early, sweeter stalks, you can blanch (or force) them in winter.Clumps should also be divided once they become overcrowded.
Watering and feeding
Once established, rhubarb rarely needs watering, but young plants and thosein containers do need regular attention:
Newly planted rhubarb â water regularly throughout its first growing season, until well rooted
Established rhubarb plants â wateronly during prolonged dry periods in summer or in very light, free-draining soil. Growth will slow down and even stop if conditions are too hot and dry
Rhubarbin containers â water regularly throughout the growing season, as the compost will dry out quickly.Keep itmoist but never waterlogged. In winter,make surerain drains out freely by raising the pot up on âfeetâ or bricks, or move it to a spot thatâs sheltered from heavy downpours. The roots can rot in waterlogged compost
To boost growth, apply a general fertiliser in spring or summer.
Mulching
Forcing rhubarb
After you have harvested the first flush of blanched stems, remove the covering and allow the plantâs subsequent stems to develop normally. Avoid forcing the same plant in consecutive years.
Removing flowers
Rhubarb clumps often send up one or more large flower stems in summer â remove these at the base as soon as they appear, to prevent them weakening the plant.Some varieties are more prone to flowering than others, and itâs more common in a wet summer or if a high nitrogen feed has been overused.
Dividing mature plants
Large clumps of rhubarb should be divided every five years or so, especially if the leaves are overcrowded or growth has become weaker. This will give you several vigorous new plants for your own garden or to share with friends, but only propagate from strong healthy plants to ensure they are virus-free. Dig up the entire clump while dormant, between mid-autumn and early spring â ideally in November. Use a spade or an old kitchen knife to slice it into several smaller sections, each with a portion of the rhizome (thickened root) and at least one growing point or bud. Sections from the outer part are better than the centre of old plants. Discard any weak or decayed parts.Replant the root sections straight awayor wrap them in damp sacking for a short time if necessary.
Overwintering
6
Harvesting
Section 6 of 7
Rhubarb is best used fresh, but can be frozen or stored in the fridge for a couple of weeks
Most varieties can be harvested from late April or May, while early varieties can be picked from March or April. Although the stems remain edible and tasty through to mid-summer, itâs best to stop harvesting in June, or at least only take a few after then, so you donât weaken the plant. By mid-summer the stalks usually become tough and stringy.
To harvest, choose a young stalk about 30cm (1ft) long, with a leaf that has only just fully opened. Hold the stalk at the base and twist gently to ease it out of the ground. Try to avoid snapping it off, and donât cut it, as youâll leave a stump that is proneto rotting. Then remove the leaf, which is not edible, and add it to yourcompost bin. Only ever take about a third of the plantâs stems, so there are plenty of leaves left to keep it in active growth.
TOP TIP
Some people worry about increasing levels of oxalic acid in rhubarb as the season progresses. However, this build-up is mostly in the leaves, which you donât eat, and the amount in the stems is insufficient to have a toxic effect.
7
Problems
Section 7 of 7
Rhubarb is generally a robust, hardy and healthy plant that can live for at least ten years, and can be kept going far longer if divided regularly. There are only a few problems to look out for:
- slugs and snails may damage young shoots, especially tender shoots under forcing jars â see ourtips on how to stop slugs and snails
- latefrostscan damage young shoots, so cover with straw (or similar),if freezing temperatures are forecast
- rotting in damp conditions, especially in winter â avoid planting rhubarb in a poorly drained site that gets waterlogged, and make sure plants in containers donât sit in trays of water. If you notice areas of die-back, cut these out promptly before the rot spreads and kills the whole plant
